Indian star tortoises (Geochelone elegans) are a popular species in the pet trade. They are exceptionally colorful and tiny with their stunning, star-like patterns.
These tortoises are easier to keep as pets than many other species. They don’t take up much space and are hardy. Yet, they have specific requirements, and their care takes up much time. Indian star tortoises are best suited for caretakers with previous tortoise experience.
Keep reading to learn the specific requirements of Indian star tortoises.
What Is An Indian Star Tortoise?
Indian star tortoises are small, colorful animals native to the Indian subcontinent. Their unique characteristics make them desirable across the world.
Shell Coloration
There are no recognized subspecies of the Indian star tortoise. Still, they have different morphologies and coloration depending on their region.
Tortoises in northern India are often darker. They have shell patterns without much contrast. They are larger than tortoises in other regions.
Tortoises in southern India have a lot of contrast and brighter shell patterns.
Tortoises from Sri Lanka have the most brilliant coloration of all the regions. They have yellow bands across their shells larger than those in other regions. Sri Lankan tortoises are generally larger than those in southern India. They are smaller than those in northern India.
Every Indian star tortoise has yellow at the center of each scute, called the areola. Radiating from the center of each areola are yellow and tan lines that resemble a star. The star-shaped coloration on each scute is where these tortoises get their name. The scutes on the edges of their shells have star-like patterns, but the shapes are incomplete.
The plastron, or bottom shell, has a light yellow or tan coloration. Breaking up the yellow is darker, brown, radiating lines.
Other Characteristics
Besides the coloration, the texture of the shells is quite striking. Some individuals have smooth shells. Others have pyramid-like scutes that protrude from the surface.
The skin of their heads, limbs, and tails is yellow or tan. Some individuals have dark blotches or spots across their skin.
Males and females are sexually dimorphic. It’s possible to tell males and females apart by their physical characteristics. Males have longer and thicker tails. Their plastrons are slightly concave to help with mounting females during mating. Females have flat plastrons. Their anal scutes are longer and have more separation than the anal scutes of females.
Common Names: Indian Star Tortoise
Scientific Name: Geochelone elegans
Origin: The Indian Subcontinent
Indian Star Tortoise Size (Length): Up to 10-12 in (25-30 cm) — female, Up to 6-8 in (15-20 cm) — male
Weight: Up to 11-13.2 lbs (5-6 kg)
Indian Star Tortoise Lifespan: 25 years (average in captivity), 35-80 years (estimate in the wild)
Enclosure Size: 6 ft by 6 ft (1.8 m by 1.8 m)
Temperament: Passive
Ease of Care: Moderately difficult
How Big Do Indian Star Tortoises Get?
Females tend to be larger than males. A full-grown Indian star tortoise may have a carapace up to 10-12 in (25-30 cm) if female. A male’s carapace is usually about 6-8 in (15-20 cm) long. The largest female on record had a carapace 15 in (38 cm) long.
How Long Do Indian Star Tortoises Live?
There are no studies detailing the lifespan of Indian star tortoises. The estimated lifespan of wild individuals is between 35 and 80 years old. In captivity, these tortoises have typically only lived to about 25 years of age.
Habitat
Indian star tortoises are native to the Indian Subcontinent. Their populations live in three distinct locations.
The first region comprises southern Pakistan and western India. In India, they live across Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Uttar Pradesh. In Pakistan, they live across the Thar Desert.
The second region comprises southeastern India. They live across Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu.
The third region is Sri Lanka, which is an island.
Within these regions, Indian star tortoises live in many different habitats. They are fairly hardy and can withstand climates, both wet and dry. The areas they inhabit have highly contrasting wet and dry seasons.
The Indian Subcontinent is subject to rainy seasons with monsoons. Following the monsoon season is a period of exceptional hotness and dryness.
The primary habitats they live in include:
- Deciduous forests — moist
- Lowland forests — semi-arid
- Grasslands — arid
- Thorn scrub forests
- Semi-desert
- Agricultural areas (occasionally)
Indian Star Tortoise Diet
The Indian tortoise is primarily herbivorous. They feed on herbaceous leaves, grasses, flowers, and fruit. They sometimes eat animal matter, including insects and carrion. They may occasionally eat feces, likely when lacking in nutrients.
These tortoises can go a long time without eating and will do so when food is scarce. Food is most often lacking in the exceptionally hot and cold parts of the year. During these periods, the tortoises become inactive, and their bodies don’t need as much fuel.
Behavior & Temperament
Indian star tortoises are most active in the early morning and late afternoon. During the hot, dry season, they hide beneath vegetation where it is cooler most of the day.
These tortoises become more active during the rainy season when it’s cooler. They sleep less often and spend most of the day out and about.
The Pakistan and western Indian regions are quite cold over the winter months. Tortoises in these regions become inactive and go into hibernation.
Reproduction
Males become sexually mature sooner than females. Wild males tend to sexually mature between six and eight years of age. Females don’t sexually mature for about eight to 12 years. In captivity, both males and females tend to mature years earlier.
The mating season begins during the rainy season. The rainy season is between the middle of June and November in southern India.
Males become quite aggressive with each other when it’s time for mating. They compete with other males by shoving each other and trying to flip them on their backs. Being stuck on their back is dangerous for tortoises if they can’t fix themselves. It leaves them vulnerable to predators and heat.
Indian star tortoise males are mostly gentle with their females. Other species tend to bite, shove, and headbutt females to get them to mate. Male Indian star tortoises do not do so, likely because females are larger than them. Upon mating, males emit a series of grunts.
Nesting
After mating, the male wanders off to leave the female to deal with the eggs.
About 60 to 90 days after mating, the female is ready to lay her eggs. Females wander around, sniffing the ground to look for the perfect nesting site.
After finding the ideal nesting site, she often urinates on the soil to soften it. Then, she uses her back feet to dig a shallow hole. Next, she lays the eggs in the hole and covers them with the soil. She uses her plastron to pat down the soil and make it flat.
After laying her eggs, the female leaves, offering no protection.
The Eggs
Mother Indian star tortoises may lay one to ten eggs per clutch. They may lay up to nine clutches a breeding season.
Indian star tortoise eggs are only about 1.4-2.1 in (3.5-5.2 cm) long and weigh about 0.4-0.7 oz (12-21 g). Eggs laid by larger females may be somewhat larger.
Eggs are usually oval but are sometimes more spherical. The eggs are hard with lots of pores and quite brittle. After laying, eggs are translucent pink; they turn white after about two to three weeks. The more solid white color begins appearing around the center of the egg. The solid coloration expands across the egg as time goes by.
The resulting sex of the developing eggs depends on the surrounding temperature. Mostly males hatch when eggs develop in cooler temperatures between 82.4°F (28-30°C). Primarily females develop at temperatures between 87.8-89.6°F (31-32°C).
Incubation
Likewise, incubation time is likely temperature dependent. Most eggs incubate for about 90 to 170 days before hatching.
Hatchlings
Hatchling Indian star tortoises are far duller than their adult counterparts. The base color of their carapace is dark brown to black, and they have yellow to orange blotches on each scute. Yet, they do not have the radiating star markings that adults have.
Their carapaces are only about 1.4 in (3.5 cm) in length, and they only weigh about 0.9-1.6 oz (25-45 g).
Hatchlings spend most of their time searching for food. They grow rapidly in their first several months.
Predators
An adult Indian star turtle does not have many predators. They have hard shells for protection. Plus, they are large enough that predators rarely bother them.
They spend most of their time sheltering under vegetation, going unnoticed by predators. The unique patterning on their shell intermingles with the vegetation. Predators don’t recognize the shell as an animal, rather, mistaking it for more vegetation.
There aren’t many reports on predators that go after this species. Yet, like other tortoise species, hatchlings and eggs are undoubtedly easy prey.
Likely prey of eggs and hatchlings include:
- Jackals
- Foxes
- Mongoose
- Hawks
- Vultures
- Monitor lizards
- Snakes
Conservation
Adult Indian star tortoises don’t have many natural predators. Humans are their greatest threat.
The International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) assessed these animals in 2020. The IUCN lists Indian star tortoises as “vulnerable” with a decreasing population trend.
Locals have been collecting these tortoises for centuries as a food source. Traditional consumption has significantly affected the local human populations. Yet, it has never been a massive threat to the tortoise populations. Most locals eating these tortoises are in poverty and belong to tribal groups. The more income a family makes, the less likely they are to eat these tortoises.
Mass Collection
Yet, in the past few decades, mass collection has become a problem.
Humans have been collecting tortoises for the pet trade and commercial food production. Large numbers of Indian star tortoises are being taken, damaging their populations. The unique coloration of their shells makes them extremely popular in the pet trade. Their use for commercial food purposes is highly unsustainable.
Indian star tortoises are illegally exported for food and medicinal use. They are popular for these purposes across Malaysia and China. Many users of traditional medicine believe tortoises are a source of energy.
Fortunately, most Indian star tortoises in the United States and Europe are captive-bred. Many of the tortoises still come from India. Yet, most come from responsible breeders rather than the illegal pet trade.
Exporting these tortoises out of India and Sri Lanka has been illegal for several years. Unfortunately, they are still making their way out of these countries illegally.
Smuggling
An estimated 10-20,000 wild individuals disappear every year. Of those individuals, only about 3,000 are rescued from the illegal trade.
Most of these animals are going toward the pet trade, food, or medicinal use. Most hunters take tortoises between July and August and sell them to smugglers.
There has been a crackdown in airport security. Smuggling these animals out of India has become increasingly difficult. Yet, the smugglers have persisted. They find workarounds and move the animals to surrounding countries. Then, the tortoises make their way to Europe and the United States.
Wild-collected tortoises are likely to die from mistreatment and stress. They often go a few weeks without food and receive harsh handling. The stress makes them more susceptible to disease. Many die during transport or shortly after.
Parasites & Disease
Unfortunately, Indian star tortoises can be dangerous to humans. They are frequent hosts of parasites. The parasites they most often host are ticks, flukes, roundworms, and tapeworms.
The parasites also have negative impacts on the tortoise populations. They are likely to kill them without treatment.
Indian star tortoises are also prone to pneumonia and respiratory diseases.
Habitat Loss
These tortoises are in danger from habitat loss. Much of their natural habitat has been torn down to make way for agricultural fields.
Plus, some farmers kill tortoises when they move into their fields. Tortoises eat their crops, making them a threat.
Yet, this is rare, and most farmers merely transport the tortoises a short distance away.
Seed Dispersers
Indian star tortoises are incredibly important to the environment they live in. As herbivores, they are primary seed dispersers. The seeds they eat collect in their feces. Tortoises disperse them wherever they travel. Seed dispersal results in the growth of more native plants.
Protection
Today, these tortoises receive protection from the Indian Wildlife Act of 1972. The act has made the trading and possession of these tortoises illegal. Yet, enforcement of the act is not great, and many Indian pet stores offer these tortoises for sale.
They get some protection from the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). CITES can regulate their international trade to an extent, limiting illegal exportation.
Indian Star Turtle Care
Wild-caught specimens are relatively difficult to care for and breed. They often experience stress and come to unsuspecting owners with disease. Captive-bred specimens are hardier. Plus, they won’t have the same stress as wild-caught individuals.
Captive-bred tortoises are much easier to care for. Yet, they need plenty of space for roaming and have specific care requirements. They are still not suitable for first-time reptile owners. Those with prior experience make the best caretakers.
Exportation of wild-caught Indian star tortoises is illegal. Always buy from a reputable breeder.
Enclosure
Unlike many other tortoise species, Indian star tortoises are not climbers. There isn’t much need to worry about them trying to escape.
Plus, these tortoises are one of the smallest species in the world; they don’t need as much space. Plus, they are one of the only species caretakers can house inside year-round. Yet, they still need enough room to explore and get exercise.
A single Indian star tortoise should have at least 55 gallons of space to roam. We don’t suggest using a glass aquarium; tortoises get stressed when they can see out of their enclosure. Instead, opt for a dark container or turtle table. Many caretakers create their enclosures out of wood.
Outdoor enclosures should be at least 6 ft by 6 ft (1.8 m by 1.8 m). Indoor enclosures don’t need to be as big, about 3 ft by 3 ft (0.9 m by 0.9 m).
Tortoises living in an outdoor enclosure should have a wall at least 18 in (45.7 cm) high. The height of the wall will help keep most predators out.
Tortoises housed inside year-round don’t need walls with a lot of height since they don’t climb. Still, the top should be wholly enclosed if other animals live in the house, particularly dogs or cats. Even something as simple as a screen top will do.
The wall should sit about 6 in (15.2 cm) below the ground to prevent the tortoise from digging out. Indian star tortoises rarely dig like other species. Still, it’s still a reasonable precaution.
They should have at least two tortoise huts inside their outside enclosure. One should sit near their basking spot, and the other should sit on the cooler side of the enclosure. Huts should have insulation and a door. Caretakers can lock tortoises inside their huts on cold nights.
Provide adult tortoises with a shallow soaking dish separate from their drinking dish. The dish should be large enough that the tortoise can soak its whole body and walk around a bit. The dish should be short enough that the tortoise can easily climb out of it.
* Do not provide juvenile tortoises with soaking dishes, as they may cause drowning. Instead, soak the juveniles under direct supervision for about 10 minutes a day. Use shallow warm water. *
Caretakers need to replicate the dry and wet seasons wild tortoises experience. The easiest way to do this in an outdoor enclosure is to install sprinklers. Turning the sprinklers on for five to ten minutes twice daily is usually enough.
Automated machine misters are a good alternative to sprinklers for indoor tortoises. They work the same as sprinklers, but on a smaller scale.
Temperature & Lighting
It can be hard to replicate their natural home environment. They are used to wide fluctuations in temperature and humidity.
The basking temperature should be between 90-95°F (32.2-35°C).
The ambient temperature of the rest of the enclosure should be between 80-90°F (26.7-32.2°C).
Nighttime temperatures can drop as low as 70°F (21.1°C).
Tortoises living in an outdoor enclosure may need to come inside over winter. Caretakers must use their own discretion based on where they live. Consistent temperatures lower than 70°F (21.1°C) show tortoises should come inside for winter. Tortoises can stay outside if the temperatures only drop lower than this at night. Lock the tortoises inside their hut overnight for warmth.
Tortoises should get 12 hours of light and dark every day. The easiest way to provide the right amount of light is by hooking timers up to the lights. The timers automatically turn the lights on and off whether the caretakers are home.
Provide plenty of shady places for the tortoise to get out of the heat when they want to. Vegetation is excellent for this.
Hide Boxes
Like the rest of the enclosure, the tortoise’s hide box(es) should have a temperature gradient. The basking spot should be about 70°F (21.1°C), while the coldest area of the box should be no less than 50°F (10°C).
Heating the hide boxes is only necessary during the colder months.
The Importance Of UVB Lighting
Use these things to heat and light an enclosure:
- UVB bulbs
- Ceramic heaters
- Under-tank heaters
- Mercury vapor bulbs.
Natural sunlight or UVB bulbs are necessary. UVB light helps tortoises produce vitamin D3, which enables them to absorb calcium.
Tortoises without enough UVB light or sunlight can develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). MBD is a painful but preventable disease that causes deformations of the bones and shell.
Humidity
Indian star tortoises need high levels of humidity, about 80%.
The easiest way to keep the humidity up is to provide a soaking dish. The water in the soaking dish keeps the moisture content up in the air throughout the day. Moist dig boxes are great for maintaining humidity. Fill the box with soil that the tortoise can dig or lay in, and keep the soil moist. The box provides excellent enrichment while maintaining the correct humidity.
Caretakers may need to mist the enclosure several times a day to keep humidity levels up. Installing humidifiers in the enclosure is also great for keeping levels up.
Substrate
Various substrates are suitable for Indian star tortoises, including:
- Organic potting soil (vermiculite & chemical-free)
- Peat moss
- Coconut fiber
- Hay
- Grass
Potting soil and peat moss are excellent for maintaining the correct humidity levels.
Dirt substrate should be at least 6-8 in (15.2-20.3 cm) deep for females to bury their eggs.
Allowing grasses to grow inside the enclosure is a great way to enrich these tortoises. Cut some of the grass low to make it ideal for eating. Keep some of the grass long to provide shade and hiding spots.
Don’t cover the entire enclosure in grass, though. Leave a few bare spots so the tortoises can bask and dig holes to lay their eggs.
Caretakers can grow grass inside their indoor enclosures as well.
Simply laying grass on top of the substrate is another good option for those that don’t want to grow it. Indian star tortoises like to burrow and may hide underneath the grasses.
Decorations
Provide tortoises with many hiding places, including hide boxes, rocks, and hollowed-out logs. Ensure these are large enough for the tortoise to fit their entire body and turn around. There should be no risk of them getting stuck.
Live and fake vegetation are great supplements. They provide the tortoise with food and enrichment. Ensure live plants are non-toxic, as the tortoise will nibble on them. Spider plants and Boston ferns are both safe options.
Cleaning
Enclosures need spot cleaning daily to remove old food and feces. Caretakers should change their water dishes at least once a day as well. They may need to replace the water several times a day, especially soaking dishes. Tortoises are prone to defecating in their soaking dishes. Completely replace the soil about once a month.
The sides of the enclosure and decorations should receive regular disinfecting. Use a non-toxic, tortoise-safe disinfectant for this. Never use harsh chemicals.
Handling
Like all tortoise species, Indian star tortoises do not like handling. Too much handling can cause a lot of stress and may even make them sick. Handling should stay at a minimum. Most caretakers only handle their tortoises occasionally when cleaning and feeding.
They are quite shy compared to other species. They are less likely to interact with their caretakers. Still, they are apt to become comfortable with their caretakers. They may be more willing to interact with caretakers after some time.
Though they dislike handling, it’s unlikely for these tortoises to bite. Bites usually only occur if they mistake a finger or toe for food. They may bite if they feel threatened and have no other option, though this is rare. Fear bites usually only happen if they feel cornered.
Tank Mates
Indian star tortoises are not territorial except during breeding season. I’s okay to house many together. It’s easier to accommodate several of these tortoises than other species due to their tiny size.
An 8 ft by 8 ft (2.4 m by 2.4 m) enclosure is suitable for four to five tortoises. Try to keep more males than females, so the females are less stressed during the mating season. For instance, two males to three females is a good target. Or one male to two to four females.
Diet
Indian star tortoises are primarily herbivores, and their diet should comprise mostly grasses.
Grasses acceptable for these tortoises include:
- Timothy hay
- Bermuda grass
- Orchard grass
- Ryegrass
- Alfalfa
- Fescue
Fresh, leafy greens should make up a large part of an Indian star tortoises diet.
Safe, healthy greens include:
- Endives
- Dandelion greens
- Escarole
- Spineless cactus leaves
- Mustard greens
- Red & green leaf lettuce
Other healthy vegetables include:
- Carrots
- Bell peppers
- Tomatoes
- Zucchini
- Pumpkin
* Never feed tortoises vegetables high in oxalates. They can prevent tortoises from properly absorbing calcium. Some vegetables to avoid are spinach and kale. *
Indian star tortoises can occasionally have fruit as a snack. Yet, fruits are high in sugar and aren’t healthy for them to have regularly.
Healthy fruits include:
- Apples
- Strawberries
- Raspberries
* Never feed Indian star tortoises cat or dog food. The protein content is too high and can cause major digestive issues.
Do Tortoises Need Calcium Powder?
It is a good idea to provide tortoises with a supplemental calcium powder. Calcium is essential to the health of these tortoises. Too little calcium and too much phosphorus can lead to metabolic bone disease.
The greens and vegetables listed above have a high calcium-to-phosphorus ratio.
On a healthy diet, tortoises shouldn’t need supplements. Yet, caretakers may do everything right, and their tortoise still has nutritional deficiencies. It’s good to provide supplements to prevent this.
Juvenile tortoises should receive a calcium supplement two to three times a week. Supplements usually come in a powder form. Caretakers can sprinkle it over their tortoise’s regular food.
They should get a multivitamin once a week.
Supplements aren’t as necessary for adult tortoises. Still, it’s good to provide them as a precaution. Sprinkle a calcium supplement on their food once or twice a month. Add a multivitamin supplement once a month as well.
How Often To Feed
Juveniles need to eat more often than adults; they need lots of nutrients as they grow rapidly. Juveniles should eat once a day. Adults only need to eat two to three times a week.
Common Health Problems
Reptiles are more prone to health problems than other pets, like cats and dogs. Indian star tortoises are no exception. The best way to prevent a tortoise from having health issues is to give it the best care possible. Yet, even the healthiest tortoises can end up having problems.
Here are some of the most common issues that Indian star tortoises face.
Respiratory Infections
Outdoor tortoises are more prone to respiratory infections than those living inside. The constant changes in the weather and temperature are harder on their systems. Try to keep outdoor conditions as stable as possible.
Fluctuating humidity can cause respiratory infections. Humidity that is too high or low can, too. Caretakers must watch humidity levels and keep them as stable as possible.
Lastly, tortoises are prone to respiratory infections when living in unsanitary conditions. Caretakers must keep up with cleaning their tortoise’s enclosure to keep them healthy.
Symptoms of respiratory infections include:
- Wheezing/labored breathing
- Decreased appetite
- Lethargic
- Runny nose
- Mucus coming from the mouth
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Metabolic bone disease (MBD) is another prevalent problem among tortoises. They develop this disease from a lack of calcium, vitamin D3, or too much phosphorus. Tortoises usually develop MBD when they don’t get enough exposure to sunlight or UVB bulbs. Yet, a nutrient-deficient diet can cause it as well.
Metabolic bone disease is a painful condition. It causes deformities in the bones and shell. It is usually treatable if the caretaker catches it early. Tortoises left untreated for too long may suffer permanent disabilities. Those who never receive treatment are likely to die.
Symptoms of metabolic bone disease include:
- Lethargy
- Decreased appetite
- Soft shell
- Abnormal shell growth (e.g. pyramiding)
- Tremors/twitching
Shell Rot
Shell rot is common in tortoises that don’t receive the proper care. It is often a result of dirty enclosures, but high humidity levels sometimes cause it.
Symptoms of shell rot include:
- Shell deformities
- Fungal growth & infection
- Flaky patches on the shell
Indian Star Tortoise Care, In A Nutshell
Consult this Indian star tortoise care sheet for quick care tips:
| Enclosure Size | At Least 6 ft by 6 ft (1.8 m by 1.8 m) |
| Temperature | Daytime Temperature — 80-90°F (26.7-32.2°C)Basking Temperature — 90-95°F (32.2-35°C)Nighttime Temperature — No Lower than 70°F (21.1°C)Bring Inside once Temperatures are Consistently Lower than 70°F (21.1°C) |
| Lighting | Heat lamp UVB lamp Natural sunlight when possible |
| Decorations | Rocks Caves Vegetation Turtle hides |
| Tank Mates | Tanks Mates are Okay — Both Male and Female |
| Diet | Herbivorous |
| Handling | Minimal to No Handling |
FAQs
Most tortoise poop is brown and may have a greenish tint to it. Healthy tortoises should have solid poop with a bit of liquid.
Tortoises that are sick or who eat something they shouldn’t may have watery or discolored poop.
Tortoises may sometimes eat their poop. It is nothing to worry about. Many animals do this to absorb the nutrients their bodies may have missed the first time. Yet, caretakers can prevent them from eating their poop by spot-cleaning daily.
Tortoises often urinate and defecate at the same time.
Urates contain substances that make them appear white or off-white. If caretakers see white in their tortoise’s poop, it’s likely the urates.
Tortoise feces that have sat in the sun for a long time may become sun-bleached. Exposure to the sun for long periods can cause the feces to turn somewhat white.
Tortoises can have kale in small amounts, but caretakers should mostly avoid it. Kale and spinach contain oxalates that prevent them from properly absorbing calcium.
Aloe vera is safe to feed tortoises in moderation. It has lots of nutrients compared to other succulents. Aloe vera contains lots of moisture; t’s excellent for keeping tortoises hydrated.
Yet, too much can cause a laxative effect. Only provide it as a snack.
Take care if there are other animals in the house. Aloe vera is toxic to cats, dogs, and many other mammals.
Caretakers should strictly avoid processed food, including bread, cakes, or biscuits. It’s not something they eat in the wild; it contains preservatives that may make them sick. Their digestive systems aren’t designed to eat bread.
It’s high in sugar, protein, starch, and carbohydrates, which are bad for tortoises. Plus, bread contains yeast, which may cause a yeast infection.
It is best to avoid parsley because it contains high levels of oxalates. Oxalates prevent tortoises from absorbing calcium. It also has diuretic properties; too much can cause dehydration.
Tortoises can live a surprisingly long time without food. In the wild, they often have to go long periods without food when conditions are unsuitable.
Most tortoise species can go somewhere between three and six months without food. Still, they need access to water during this time.
Tortoises are usually in a state of hibernation or estivation when they forgo eating.
Pet tortoises shouldn’t live this long without food even though they can. Caretakers should never deprive their animals of food.
Juveniles should eat every day, and adults should eat two to three times a week.
Caretakers should try to find someone to care for their tortoises while on trips. It’s not ideal to leave tortoises without food for even a week.
Tortoises associate black and other dark colors with predators. Black doesn’t occur naturally in nature very often except in predators. They become fearful of black objects and may even attack them.
Conversely, turtles love bright colors.
Skin flaps cover tortoises ears. It may seem like they can’t hear, but they can. They have relatively good hearing, and are sensitive to loud sounds. They can hear low sounds better than higher-pitched ones.
It’s challenging to potty train a tortoise as it’s asking them to go against their natural habits. It may take several months to potty train a tortoise, and they’re unlikely to ever be completely trained.
