A spur-thighed tortoise is a reptile that goes by many names and lives in many habitats around the world. There are over ten subspecies with unique characteristics. Spur-thighed tortoises live across Europe, Asia, and Africa, mostly in dry climates.
These tortoises are primarily herbivorous, but a few subspecies eat some protein. They are passive, non-territorial animals. They share their home range with other individuals of the same species.
We don’t know much about their reproduction, but males get aggressive when it’s time to mate. Most subspecies lay several clutches of one to seven eggs.
Spur-thighed tortoise populations are “vulnerable.” Their biggest threats are habitat loss and exploitation for the illegal pet trade.
The care requirements differ somewhat between subspecies. Yet, most of their needs remain the same. Take a look at our care guide below for a general guideline on spur-thighed tortoise care.
The care guide includes instructions for:
- Creating the enclosure
- Temperature & lighting
- Humidity
- Substrate
- Decorations
- Cleaning
- Handling
- Tank mates
- Diet
- Common health problems
* Potential caretakers should further research their subspecies specific needs before buying them. *
For a more concise care guide, look at the table we’ve put together below.
What Is A Spur-Thighed Tortoise?
Spur-thighed tortoises are native to many places. They live in southern Europe, north Africa, and southwest Asia.
There are many different subspecies, and their specific habitats vary. They may live in grasslands, bushland, or semi-arid scrub. Less commonly, they may live in these habitats:
- Marshlands
- Coastal dunes
- Rocky coasts
- Pine woods
- Bushy hillsides.
There are many different subspecies of spur-thighed tortoises, including:
- Testudo graeca anamurensis — Anamurensis Greek
- Testudo graeca armeniaca — No Americanized name, also known as the Araxes tortoise
- Testudo graeca buxtoni — Zagros Mountain Greek
- Testudo graeca cyrenaica — Libyan Greek
- Testudo graeca graeca — Greek Tortoise
- Testudo graeca ibera — Ibera Greek
- Testudo graeca nabeulensis — Tunisian Greek
- Testudo graeca soussensis — No Americanized name, also known as the Souss Valley tortoise
- Testudo graeca terrestris — Golden Greek
- Testudo graeca zarudnyi — No Americanized name, also known as the Iranian tortoise
- Testudo graeca marokkensis — Moroccan Greek
* Their Americanized name is the one listed after their scientific name above. The Americanized names are meant to lessen confusion. They also give an idea of where the subspecies live. *
There isn’t much information on each subspecies individually. Yet, their habits and life history are mostly the same. So, first, we’ll cover Testudo graeca as a whole. Then, we’ll go over the key differences between each subspecies.
Greek Tortoise Characteristics
- Common Names: Spur-Thighed Tortoise, Mediterranean spur-thighed tortoises, spur-thighed Greek tortoise
- Scientific Name: Testudo graeca
- Origin: North Africa, Europe, Western Asia
- Greek Tortoise Size (Length): 5.9-7.1 in (15-18 cm)
- Weight: 2-5 lb (0.9-2.3 kg)
- Greek Tortoise Lifespan: Up to 125 years
- Enclosure Size: 3 by 6 ft (0.9-1.8 m)
- Temperament: Passive & curious
- Ease of Care: Moderate
They are long-lived animals that can live up to 125 years of age. Some anecdotal evidence shows that they can live upwards of 200 years. Yet, there is no verification for those claims. Either way, they have much longer lives than most other tortoise species.
Greek tortoises are quite colorful. Their carapaces range from brown, black, dark yellow, and gold. Usually, most of the shell is darker, while the lighter shades make up a mosaic pattern across the shell.
Their carapaces are highly domed, but they have flat heads and large eyes. They get their name from the large, hard spurs on their legs that they use for protection. They also have exceptionally long claws.
How Big Does A Greek Tortoise Get?
Greek tortoises are of a smaller size. They reach lengths of around 5.9-7.1 in (15-18 cm) and reach weights of about 2-5 lb (0.9-2.3 kg).
Greek Tortoise Habitat
Spur-thighed tortoises live in many regions across Africa, Europe, and Asia.
The countries they live in include:
- Albania
- Algeria
- Armenia
- Azerbaijan
- Bulgaria
- Egypt
- Georgia
- Greece
- Iran
- Iraq
- Israel
- Jordan
- Libya
- Macedonia
- Moldova
- Morocco
- Romania
- Russia
- Spain
- Syria
- Tunisia
- Turkey
- Ukraine
Tortoises from southern Europe and North Africa prefer specific habitats. They tend to live in grasslands, semi-arid scrub, and brush. Some live in rocky and coastal dunes, marshlands, pine woods, and brushy hillsides.
Those living in Eurasia and the Middle East have much different habitats. They often live in dry woodlands, dune grasses, and scrub thorns where the climate is dry. They also live on hillsides without vegetation, open steppes, plateaus, mountains, and wastelands.
Their habitat has seasonal fluctuations of available vegetation. Edible vegetation is most abundant over the winter and early spring months.
What Do Greek Tortoises Eat?
Most Greek tortoises are entirely herbivorous. They eat a variety of vegetation throughout their range.
Some subspecies, like Testudo graeca ibera, are omnivorous. They occasionally eat insects and mollusks.
Behavior & Temperament
At night, spur-thighed tortoises create “scrapes.” Scrapes are a type of nest positioned under sharp oak scrubs. These scrapes offer excellent protection. Several tortoises huddle in these scrapes to sleep.
It’s easy to spot these nests because the tortoise’s shells make long trails in the dirt trailing from them.
The spurs on their thighs are likely meant to help them dig because they are sharp. They are also good protection against predators and may even help them grip the ground.
Do Greek Tortoises Hibernate?
In the southernmost areas, tortoises are most active during the winter. The winter season is warmer in these areas than the summer. They enter a state of estivation during the summer when it is hottest.
Estivation is a period of dormancy that reptiles go through in hot climates. The dormancy allows them to withstand dry periods where there is little rainfall.
In the northernmost areas, the tortoise’s active periods are reversed. They are most active during the summer months when the weather is warmer. During the winter, they hibernate to withstand the cold temperatures.
Reproduction
We know little about the reproductive habits of these tortoises. We know they get ready to mate as soon as they wake up from hibernation.
In North Africa, Greek tortoises breed from April to May and a second time in the fall months. Eurasian and Middle Eastern Greek tortoises usually mate from May to June. Yet, mating may span longer, between April to July. The exact period that these tortoises mate depends on their regions. The altitudes at which they’re living also play a part.
Males pursue the females for a while before initiating contact. They begin circling and ramming the females when they are ready to mate. They are also known to bite females.
Female Greek tortoises may lay a clutch of one to seven eggs, usually between three and four. It’s common for them to lay several clutches each breeding season. Larger tortoises may lay up to 12 to 14 eggs, but this is less common.
Incubation usually takes between 55 and 70 days.
Conservation
The International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) assessed these tortoises in 1996. They listed these tortoises as “vulnerable” with an unknown population trend.
The most significant threat to these tortoises is habitat loss. Most of the habitat loss is due to agriculture, particularly overgrazing by cattle.
Another major threat is exportation for the illegal pet trade. Spur-thighed tortoises are small and passive, so they don’t fight when taken by humans.
Greek Tortoise Subspecies
Take a look at this list to see the key differences between the Greek tortoise subspecies.
Anamurensis Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca anamurensis)
Anamurensis Greek tortoises are one of the rarest subspecies of Greek tortoise.
These tortoises are unique because of their scutes. The scutes at the edges of their shells have noticeable flaring. Both males and females have flaring of these scutes. The flaring often gets them confused with marginated tortoises.
Some of these tortoises have entirely black shells. Still, others are primarily black with golden mottling. Their carapaces are also considerably flatter than the other subspecies on this list. Their bodies tend to be more narrow, so their shells are noticeably rectangular.
Juveniles have light yellow skin with dark spots. As they age, the spotting fades, and the rest of the skin darkens. Adults have dark gray to black skin to match their shells.
Anamurensis Greek tortoises are one of the larger subspecies. Some individuals reach 8-9 in (20.3-22.9 cm) long. They are hardier than many other subspecies. They are capable of withstanding many weather conditions, including the cold.
Araxes Tortoise (Testudo graeca armeniaca)
The Araxes tortoise is one of the rarer subspecies of Testudo graeca. They look like Russian tortoises with their black, gray, and tan carapaces. Their heads are bulbous. Their shells are round in width but quite flat on the top.
These tortoises are not kept as pets in the United States, but some are kept as pets in Europe.
Zagros Mountain Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca buxtoni)
These tortoises look very similar to T.g. terrestris and T.g. ibera. So, they were often confused with the other subspecies and interbred with them.
Zagros mountain Greek tortoises are one of the larger subspecies reaching lengths of 6-9 in 15.2 in (22.3 cm). They are one of the hardier tortoises and are cold-tolerant.
Their carapaces are tan, brown, gray, or black. The colors may be mottled or solid. Their skin is dark.
Libyan Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca cyrenaica)
Libyan Greek tortoises are one of the most popular subspecies in the pet trade. Their popularity is because of their bold coloration. The base of their carapace is typically golden interspersed with flecks of black. They tend to have more gold and less black on their shell than the other species.
The United States imported many of these tortoises in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Unfortunately, few of the imported tortoises survived. They didn’t receive the proper care because the owners were unaware of their specific needs.
Most caretakers tried to provide them with the same care needed by Ibera Greek tortoises. Yet, the two subspecies need different care. Today, few of these tortoises are left in the United States.
Libyan Greek tortoises are used to dry conditions and do not do well in wet or humid environments. They are one of the most difficult subspecies to transition to captive living.
Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca graeca)
The Testudo graeca graeca subspecies are rare in the American pet hobby. They are often confused with T.g. ibera. Their carapaces tend to be a light golden color. The gold is broken up with blotches and spots of black.
Each scute’s center, or areola, has a central black dot. The central spot often has fringes of black specks. Tortoises in the northern regions of their habitat tend to be darker. Those from the south tend to be lighter.
Greek tortoises are primarily native to Morocco, and their skin tends to be orange to match the soil. Many individuals of this subspecies have been introduced further north in Spain. Those individuals have more brightly-colored skin.
Many populations are smaller, only reaching lengths of 6-7 in (15.2-17.8 cm). Yet, other populations grow larger. Some individuals may reach lengths of up to 11 in (27.9 cm) and weights of up to 10 lbs (4.5 kg).
These tortoises are cold-tolerant but very sensitive and must live in dry conditions. They cannot survive for long in wet habitats.
Ibera Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca ibera)
These are the most widespread tortoise subspecies in captivity and the wild. Ibera Greek tortoises are very hardy and cold-tolerant. They vary greatly in size and coloration. One individual may be entirely black while another is completely yellow.
Tunisian Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca nabeulensis)
Tunisian Greek tortoises make up the smallest subspecies and are one of the rarest. Males usually grow no larger than 4.5 in (11.4 cm), and females grow no larger than 5.5 in (14 cm) long.
They were once classified as their own species. Now, they are classified as a subspecies of the Greek tortoise.
Their carapaces typically have a golden base color. Overtop of the golden color is large black blotches.
Importation into the United States was rare and likely illegal. The first individuals brought to the United States were probably smuggled in. It’s possible they were mistakenly mixed in with other subspecies.
They are used to dry habitats and can not withstand wet areas for long.
Souss Valley Tortoise (Testudo graeca soussensis)
These tortoises are native to Souss Valley, and southern Morocco.
They tend to be challenging to identify from other species. Their carapaces are a light tan to yellow, usually with no black markings. A few black markings are sometimes present in the form of splotches or rays.
Individuals may have significant black markings on rare occasions. The irregularity is why the subspecies are so tricky to identify.
Their skin is similarly light, orange to pink, to blend in with the surrounding soil.
Souss Valley tortoises are easiest to identify when they lack thigh spurs. While many individuals in this population have thigh spurs, many others do not. Lacking thigh spurs is very unusual among Greek tortoises.
Golden Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca terrestris)
These tortoises live throughout an extensive range. So, researchers debate whether all golden greek tortoises are of the same subspecies. There is speculation that many of the tortoises really belong to another subspecies. Perhaps, they belong to a subspecies that doesn’t exist yet.
Golden Greeks are not very hardy. They are sensitive to wet conditions and cannot live in damp areas for long periods. Runny nose syndrome is pervasive among wild-caught individuals.
Yet, they can handle cooler temperatures as long as the environment is dry and not wet.
Iranian Tortoise (Testudo graeca zarudnyi)
The Iranian tortoise is the rarest subspecies of Testudo graeca, and we do not know much about them. They only exist in the harsh habitats of eastern Iran. They have thick, hardy bodies and flared marginal scutes.
Moroccan Greek Tortoise (Testudo graeca marokkensis)
Moroccan Greek tortoises are one of the most recently discovered subspecies. They are native to North Africa.
These tortoises live in dry habitats and are cold-tolerant as long as the environment isn’t wet. They are hardy when kept in the proper conditions and breed well in captivity.
Yet, most individuals brought to the United States for the pet trade died within the first year. They were riddled with parasites and were not provided the proper care.
Moroccan Greek tortoises are some of the most colorful subspecies on this list. The base color of their plastron and carapace is typically a golden yellow color. Dark brown to black blotches cover the shell, giving the animals unique patterning.
Tortoises living in the northern parts of their range tend to be darker than those living in the south. Those in the north tend to be larger as well.
The hatchlings are easy to tell apart from other subspecies. They are uniformly brown, which is unusual for Greek tortoises. As the tortoise ages, a central spot appears on each scute. Eventually, the central spots turn into lines, rays, or larger blotches.
Spur-Thighed Greek Tortoise Care
These tortoises are easier to take care of than other species. They are passive and relatively small. Yet, an outdoor enclosure is essential for most of the year.
Plus, these tortoises have much longer lifespans than other tortoise species. It’s almost guaranteed the tortoise will outlive its caretaker. So, the caretaker needs to have a plan for their animal when they pass.
Greek Tortoise Enclosure
Spur-thighed tortoises need plenty of space to move around, despite being smaller. Due to their natural habitat, these tortoises must have an outdoor enclosure for most of the year.
A large indoor enclosure is necessary for climates with cold winters.
Outdoor enclosures should be at least 3 by 6 ft (0.9-1.8 m) with a wall at least 18 in (45.7 cm) tall.
The barrier prevents the tortoise from crawling out of the enclosure. It also prevents predators from getting inside.
At least 6 in (15.2 cm) of the wall should be below ground, too, to prevent the tortoise from digging out.
While keeping the tortoise inside, the enclosure can be a bit smaller, but bigger is always better. Some caretakers set up their tortoises in a heated garage or shed. A large tortoise table is also suitable when those aren’t available. Some caretakers even use kiddie pools, which are an acceptable solution if a large enough one is used.
Provide the tortoise with a large, shallow dish for soaking. The dish should be large enough that they can fit their whole body inside and walk around. Provide a separate drinking dish.
Juvenile Tortoises
Many caretakers prefer housing their juvenile tortoises in plastic containers. Doing so is fine until about one to two years of age. Housing them inside allows for easier monitoring. It also prevents them from getting sick or eaten.
Do not give juveniles a soaking dish, as they can cause drowning. Instead, soak them in a shallow tub of warm water for about ten minutes daily. Always soak juveniles under direct supervision.
Temperature & Lighting
In most ranges of their habitat, these tortoises are used to warm to hot temperatures. You should replicate these temperatures in their enclosure.
Their basking spot should have a temperature between 95-100°F (35-37.8°C).
The rest of the enclosure should have an ambient temperature gradient between 75-90°F (23.9-32.2°C).
At night, the temperature can drop as low as 65°F (18.3°C).
Tortoises should come inside for the winter season once temperatures drop lower.
Tortoises should receive 12 hours of light daily and 12 hours of darkness. The easiest way to regulate this is to buy a timer that hooks up to your light.
The Importance Of UVB Lighting
UVB bulbs are essential to the health of all tortoises and turtles. UVB light allows tortoises to produce vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 enables them to absorb calcium. Without UVB lighting, tortoises won’t get the nutrients needed to keep them healthy.
Tortoises without UVB light or natural sunlight will develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). MBD is a painful but preventable disease that causes deformations in the bones and shell. Usually, MBD is treatable if caught soon enough, but it can be fatal if left untreated.
Humidity
Greek tortoises need humidity levels between 40-60%. In most climates, humidity naturally stays between these levels. In other areas, caretakers may need to raise the humidity.
In outdoor enclosures, it’s ideal to soak the substrate at night before bed. The cooler temperatures hold in the humidity. So, the enclosure stays humid throughout most of the day. It may also be necessary to mist the enclosure several times throughout the day.
Substrate
For outdoor enclosures, natural dirt, and grasses work well for spur-thighed tortoises.
For indoor and outdoor enclosures, these substrates work well:
- Dirt mixtures
- Aspen wood shavings
- Reptile-safe mulch
* Make sure to feed the tortoise using a dish, so they don’t accidentally ingest their substrate. *
Decorations
Tortoises should have two huts to hide from the cold and sun. One hut should sit near the basking light, and the other should sit in the cooler part of the enclosure. The huts should have insulation and doors that shut. Caretakers will want to lock their tortoises inside overnight when the temperatures drop.
Spur-thighed tortoises should have lots of live or fake vegetation to explore. Rocks are excellent for enrichment and basking.
Decorations should always be wider than the tortoise’s body. They should be able to turn around inside their decorations, so they can’t get stuck.
Cleaning
Spot clean enclosures daily to remove leftover food and feces. Completely replace the substrate once a month. A reptile-safe cleaner is good for cleaning the sides and decorations.
Change the water in the soaking and drinking dishes at least once a day. Tortoises tend to defecate in their soaking dishes. So, caretakers may need to replace the water several times a day.
Handling
Like all tortoises, the spur-thighed tortoise does not like handling. Caretakers should only handle them when absolutely necessary. Usually, caretakers only need to move them when cleaning and feeding.
While handling, move slowly and be gentle with the tortoise. Quick movements can be jarring, and the stress can make the tortoise sick.
Yet, Greek tortoises are passive and bond quickly with their caretakers. Once they feel comfortable with their human, they may come to them for food and interaction.
Tank Mates
Spur-thighed tortoises are passive and not very territorial. So, they seem to do okay in groups. Just ensure there is enough space for several tortoises.
Do not keep these tortoises with members of other species.
Greek Tortoise Diet
Spur-thighed Greek tortoise food should be high in fiber and low in protein. They are mostly herbivorous, so protein should only be a small fraction of their diet.
Dark leafy greens should make up the majority of their diet, including:
- Collard greens
- Endives
- Dandelion greens
- Fresh parsley
- Red and green leaf lettuce
Other vegetables should make up a smaller fraction of their diet, including:
- Zucchini
- Brocolli
- Carrots
Commercial tortoise pellets should make up about 20% of their diet.
Timothy hay is an excellent supplement to their diet. It provides extra fiber and keeps their beak trimmed down.
Greek tortoises do not typically eat fruit in their wild habitat, so they don’t need fruit in their diet. They can occasionally have a bit of fruit as a snack, but too much can cause digestional issues.
Fruits safe to provide as a small snack include:
- Raspberries
- Strawberries
Supplements
Most health problems that tortoises suffer from are a result of nutritional deficiencies. Tortoises receiving an ideal diet don’t need supplements. Yet, it’s a good idea to provide supplements occasionally in case their diet isn’t enough.
Juvenile tortoises should get calcium supplements two to three times a week. They should also get a multivitamin supplement once a week.
Adults only need to receive supplements once to twice a month.
Reptile supplements usually come in powder form. Caretakers can easily dust the powder over their usual food.
How Often To Feed Tortoises
Juvenile tortoises need more food than adults, so they should eat every day. Fully-grown tortoises only need to eat two to three times a week.
Common Health Problems
Like all reptiles, spur-thighed tortoises are prone to specific health conditions. Keep an eye out for any symptoms indicating the tortoise is sick. Sick tortoises need immediate veterinary intervention.
Shell Rot
Shell rot is prevalent in tortoises that need higher levels of humidity. It is also common if their enclosures don’t receive enough cleaning.
Symptoms of shell rot include:
- Shell deformities
- Fungal growth & infection
- Flaky patches on the shell
Respiratory Infections
Respiratory infections are common if the humidity drops too low or gets too high. They’re also caused by dirty enclosures or a lack of nutrients. Respiratory infections are dangerous and contagious to other tortoises. They require immediate attention.
Symptoms of respiratory infections include:
- Runny nose
- Labored breathing
- Gasping for air
- Decreased appetite
- Lethargy
Metabolic Bone Disease
Metabolic bone disease occurs from a lack of vitamin D3, calcium, or phosphorous. These deficiencies are usually from a lack of UVB light or sunlight, or a lack of nutrients in the diet.
Symptoms of metabolic bone disease include:
- Lethargy
- Decreased appetite
- Soft shell
- Abnormal shell growth (e.g. pyramiding)
- Tremors/twitching
Spur-Thighed Tortoise Care, In A Nutshell
Consult this spur-thighed tortoise care sheet for quick care tips:
| Enclosure Size | 3 by 6 ft (0.9-1.8 m) |
| Temperature | Daytime Temperature — 75-90°F (23.9-32.2°C)Basking Temperature — 95-100°F (35-37.8°C)Bring tortoises inside for winter when temperatures drop below 65°F (18.3°C) |
| Lighting | Heat lamp UVB lamp Natural sunlight when possible |
| Humidity | 40-60% |
| Substrate | Dirt mixtures Aspen wood shavings Reptile-safe mulch |
| Decorations | Rocks Caves Vegetation Turtle hides |
| Tank Mates | Tank mates okay |
| Diet | Herbivorous |
| Handling | Minimal to No Handling |
FAQs
Apples are safe to give to most tortoises in moderation but shouldn’t be part of their regular diet. Too many apples can cause digestive issues because they are high in sugar.
Whether apples and fruit are safe also depends on the species.
Mediterranean tortoises, like the spur-thighed tortoise, do not need fruit at all. Fruits are not naturally occurring in their habitat. So, their digestive system is not used to them. It’s okay to have an occasional snack of fruit, though.
Fruit shouldn’t make up more than 15% of a fruit-eating tortoise’s diet.
Tortoises should only eat melons in moderation. Those who eat fruit naturally in their habitats will have an easier time digesting it. Melons are also high in sugars and can cause digestive issues.
As another fruit, fruit-eating tortoises should only eat pears in moderation.
As another fruit, fruit-eating tortoises should only eat plums in moderation.
Turtles and tortoises are the only animals with backbones that also have a shell. That shell has served them well, too, as the species has existed for over 220 million years.
The shell is a part of their body, not just a covering. The shell comprises 59 to 61 bones, with the ribs and backbone attached to it.
The attachment of the bones to the shell is why many turtles and tortoises do not survive shell injuries. Plus, they can feel pressure and pain through their shells.
The attachment of the bones to the shell also prevents the animal from crawling out of its shell.
Plates, called scutes, make up the shell, covering and protecting the bones underneath. Scutes comprise keratin, the same thing that makes up fingernails.
