Red-footed tortoises are moderately sized tortoises. They are native to South America and the Caribbean Islands. They have bright shells and skin that comes in yellows, oranges, and reds. Like all tortoises, they live a long time and can live well over 50 years of age.
These tortoises live in dry and wet habitats across grasslands and forests. They are primarily herbivorous but eat a bit of protein and even sand.
Red-footed tortoises are passive and non-territorial. They communicate with each other using a series of head bobs. Males become more aggressive during the breeding season. They produce a clucking sound toward females to attract them. Females may produce several clutches of 2 to 15 eggs.
Predators eat most hatchlings and eggs, but adults have few natural predators. Humans are their biggest threat. Their populations are likely in decline due to habitat loss and overhunting.
Red-footed tortoises do not enjoy handling, so they are best for caretakers who are okay with that. They also live a long time, often outliving their caretakers. So, potential buyers should have a plan for their tortoise after they pass. They are not the easiest animals to care for, but for those with experience, they can make excellent pets.
Keep reading below to learn how to care for a red-footed tortoise properly. Things that we will cover include:
- Enclosure
- Temperature & Lighting
- Humidity
- Substrate
- Decorations
- Cleaning
- Handling
- Tank Mates
- Diet
- Health Problems
Check out the red-footed tortoise care guide we’ve provided below. It provides more concise information for quick reference.
What Are Red-Footed Tortoises?
Red-footed tortoises are most recognizable for their bright patches of color. The bright splashes of color are usually red, but they may also be orange or yellow. These colors appear on their legs, head, and tail. The red of their skin is dark brown to black. Their individual coloration varies by geographic location.
Like all tortoises, they have a high-domed shell, but theirs is bumpy and not smooth. Their carapace, or upper shell, is brown, dark gray, or black. At the center of each scute is a pale marking called an “areolae.” The plastron, or lower shell, is usually light to dark yellow.
Juvenile red-footed tortoises are more colorful than their adult counterparts. While young, the scutes on their shells have a yellow or tan rim. As the tortoise ages, the carapace dulls. An adult red-footed tortoise may not have any color on their shell at all.
Males also develop an hourglass shape as they age and have longer tails. Males also have an opening between their plastron and carapace. The opening allows easier tail movement.
How Big Do Red-Footed Tortoises Get?
Red-footed tortoises are moderately-sized animals. The males tend to be larger than the females. A full-grown red-footed tortoise may reach lengths of up to 13.5 in (34 cm) if male. Females tend to only grow to 11.25 in (28.5 cm) in length. Males may weigh up to 20 lbs (9 kg).
How Long Do Red-Footed Tortoises Live?
Red-footed tortoises may live for 50 or more years.
- Common Names: Red-footed tortoise, red-foot tortoise, red foots, Savannah tortoise
- Scientific Name: Geochelone carbonaria
- Origin: South America & the Caribbean Islands
- Red-Footed Tortoise Size (Length): 11.25 in (28.5 cm) — female, 13.5 in (34 cm) — male
- Weight: Up to 20 lbs (9 kg)
- Red-Footed Tortoise Lifespan: 50+ years
- Enclosure Size: 4 by 4 ft (1.2 by 1.2 m)
- Temperament: Passive
- Ease of Care: Moderate
Red-Footed Tortoise Habitat
The red-footed tortoise’s range spans across South America from Argentina to Panama. They also live on the Caribbean Islands of Trinidad and Barbados.
Red-footed tortoises are one of only three tortoise species native to South America.
These tortoises prefer savannas, grassland, and wet and dry forests. They prefer heavily forested areas with humid environments. They are avid burrowers, so they avoid areas with lots of mud where burrowing is difficult. They rarely live in clearings with palm and mango trees.
Red-Footed Tortoise Diet
Red-footed tortoises are primarily herbivorous but may eat some animal matter. Their primary diet comprises leaves, grass, flowers, fruits, and fungi. They also eat small amounts of insects and carrion when available. Males tend to eat more fruits than females.
Oddly enough, red-footed tortoises sometimes eat sand. Researchers believe sand aids digestion.
These tortoises have a remarkable sense of smell that helps them to find food easily.
They don’t need to eat much as the temperature drops because their metabolism slows down. The temperature doesn’t need to drop to extreme levels, either. Once the temperature drops to just 60°F (15.6°C), they only need to eat about once a month.
Behavior & Temperament
To communicate, males and females display a series of head movements.
Red-footed tortoises are diurnal, which means they are most active during the day. They are also very active immediately after rain when the air is cooler.
They do not wander often and seem to have a small home range. They are not territorial with members of their species, either. They are passive outside the mating season and are not inclined to fight.
Reproduction
Red-footed tortoises become sexually mature at around five years of age. Sexual maturity occurs when the tortoise reaches 7.8-9.8 in (20-25 cm) in length.
Breeding occurs at the beginning of the rainy season.
Males fight aggressively amongst each other for access to females. They signal to each other with a series of head movements before the battle begins. Sometimes, the losing male may end up on his back — a dangerous situation if he can’t fix himself.
To attract females, males produce a clucking noise that sounds oddly like that of a hen.
The Eggs
While the eggs are developing, females need to eat a more nutritionally-rich diet. The extra nutrients support their bone health and allow them to develop eggshells.
Near laying the eggs, the female becomes restless. They can’t stop until they find the perfect nesting site. Before laying her eggs, the female will dig a shallow hole in the forest floor, which she covers in leaf litter. The hole is usually about 7.8 in (20 cm) deep.
A single female produces 2-15 eggs in one clutch and may have several clutches over a single season. The incubation time varies on the local climate but usually takes between 117 and 158 days.
The temperature of the environment determines the sex of the resulting hatchlings.
After laying the eggs, the female leaves them and the hatchlings to fend for themselves. The father provides no parental care after mating.
Hatchlings
When they hatch, a baby red-footed tortoise is only about 1.5-2 in (3.8-5.1 cm) in length. They weigh between 0.8-1.1 oz (22-30 g).
Hatchlings spend most of their time foraging. They often produce a series of clicking sounds while doing so. The clicking sounds are like those produced by males during mating.
Predators
Red-footed tortoises don’t have many natural predators. Their large size and hard shells make them challenging to eat. They simply pull their bodies into their shells when they feel threatened. As a result, predators have a hard time penetrating the exterior.
Besides humans, the only natural predators of adult red-footed tortoises are jaguars.
Hatchlings and eggs are very susceptible to predation, though.
Common predators of hatchlings and eggs include:
- Foxes
- Coatis
- Dogs
- Cats
- Skunks
- Lizards
- Rats
- Birds-of-prey
Conservation
The International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) has not yet assessed this species. Yet, their populations are likely in severe decline. Their biggest threats are habitat loss and overhunting.
Red-footed tortoises receive protection from CITES. That is, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species. The protection prevents export outside their home countries without the proper permits.
Many countries are also taking steps to convert private land into national parks. Doing so preserves the tortoise’s natural habitat so they will always have a place to live.
These tortoises are also threatened by hunting by humans, as well as over-collection. Their meat is a delicacy across much of their natural range. They’re also very passive animals, so they are easy targets for the illegal pet trade.
Red-footed tortoises are important to their range because they are primary seed dispersers. Their main diet comprises fruit and other vegetation. As they travel, they defecate the fruit seeds, which grow into new plants.
Care
Red-footed tortoises are among the most popular pet tortoises in the United States. They are smaller than many other tortoises. Plus, they are curious animals that like to interact with their caretakers.
Red-Footed Tortoise Enclosure
The larger the enclosure, the better. Caretakers can never provide their tortoises with an enclosure that’s too big. As these animals need a lot of space, many owners have taken to making enclosures.
Enclosures should be at least 4 by 4 ft (1.2 by 1.2 m) with a wall 12 in (30.5 cm) high. Providing an even higher wall is ideal for preventing predators from getting inside. Ensure the wall goes at least 6 in (15.2 cm) underground to prevent digging.
Provide the tortoise with a large, shallow dish of water that allows wading. The water dish should be large enough for the tortoise to fit its entire body. It should not be so deep that the tortoise can’t get out.
Juvenile Enclosures
It’s possible to start juveniles in a smaller container. Yet, they grow fast during their first ten years of life. After they’ve reached one to two years of age, it’s ideal to move them into their permanent enclosure.
Juveniles under two years can comfortably live in a container of about 50 gallons. Rounded plastic containers are usually the best option. They prevent climbing and are easier to clean than the straight corners of aquariums. They are also inexpensive and easy to rearrange to suit the tortoise’s needs.
Caretakers can cut out holes in the sides of the container to improve circulation. Cover the holes with wire mesh to prevent escape. The mesh should attach to the outside of the container. Doing so prevents the tortoise from cutting themselves on the sharp edges.
* Do not provide soaking dishes for juvenile turtles — they may cause drowning. Instead, soak the turtles in a shallow dish of warm water once a day. Always do so under direct supervision. *
Red-Foot Tortoise Indoor Enclosure
Provide an indoor enclosure similar in size to their outdoor enclosure. It is okay for their indoor habitat to be slightly smaller than they’re used to, but the bigger, the better. Some caretakers keep their tortoises in a heated garage or shed. It’s also possible to set up a temporary enclosure inside the house — tortoise tables are popular.
Temperature & Lighting
Caretakers should aim to replicate their tortoise’s natural habitat. That means providing them with lots of sun and heat.
Red-footed tortoises should have a basking spot that ranges from 82-90°F (27.7-32.2°C).
They should also have an ambient temperature gradient of 74-80°F (23.3-26.7°C) in the rest of their enclosure.
It’s okay for temperatures to drop as low as 70°F (21.1°C) overnight. Once nighttime temperatures drop lower than this, tortoises should come inside for winter.
Lights should be on for about 12 hours and off for another 12 hours. The easiest way to maintain this schedule is to buy a timer that automatically turns the lights on and off. Maintaining this schedule helps replicate the tortoise’s natural day-night cycle.
Keep their enclosures warm at night with ceramic heat emitters. “Pig blankets” are also an excellent option for something warm to lay on while sleeping.
Their tortoise houses should have insulation to keep in the heat at night. They should also have a door that shuts. Lock tortoises inside overnight when temperatures drop.
Do Red-Footed Tortoises Hibernate?
Red-footed tortoises are not used to cold temperatures and do not hibernate.
Nighttime Lighting
Using lights at night is not necessary for tortoises. Tortoises can see in color and some infrared waves. So they can see well enough at night without extra lighting. Red, blue, and black “night” lights may stress the tortoise more than help it.
The Necessity Of UVB Lighting
A UVB bulb is essential besides a heat lamp when keeping the tortoise indoors. UVB bulbs allow the tortoise’s body to produce vitamin D3, enabling them to absorb calcium. Calcium and D3 are essential to their health. Without those nutrients, the tortoise will likely develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). MBD is a painful and sometimes fatal disease if left untreated.
Keep the UVB light no more than 24 in (61 cm) and no less than 12 in (30.5 cm) from where the tortoise will bask. Doing so ensures the tortoise gets the right amount of vitamin D3 while preventing burns.
UVB bulbs wear out over time. So, replace the bulbs once every six months to ensure the tortoise gets the right amount of vitamin D3.
Red-Footed Tortoise Humidity
These tortoises are used to a significant amount of humidity. So, keep their enclosure between 50-70% humidity. Yet, ventilation and plenty of airflow are necessary because of the extra moisture. Having the proper ventilation prevents respiratory infections.
It’s relatively easy to maintain humidity by providing the tortoise with a dig box. Fill the box with soft dirt and dampen it. The moist soil will keep the humidity high and enrich the tortoise. The dirt should be moist enough to clump together, but water should not run out of the box.
It’s also helpful to moisten all the substrate in the enclosure at night. The cooler nighttime temperatures hold in moisture for most of the day. Periodic misting of the enclosure may be necessary as well.
Substrate
Provide tortoises with a bit of mud over the summer months as they enjoy bathing in it.
Forest moss is ideal for hatchlings because it’s soft and maintains moisture well. It’s not good for them to eat, so feed them in a separate container.
Inside, caretakers can use a variety of substrates:
- Indoor/outdoor carpet
- Paper towels
- Newspaper
- Butcher paper
- Cypress mulch
- Zoo Med Repti Bark
- Coco chips
Natural tortoise bedding is okay but requires more upkeep. It must be spot cleaned every day and completely replaced every month.
Cover carpet or paper with a layer of timothy hay for better absorbency and grip. The timothy hay also offers excellent enrichment and exercise for tortoises.
Decorations
Provide the tortoise with at least two tortoise houses. Place one close to the basking spot and one on the cooler side of the enclosure. The tortoise houses can comprise various materials. Still, they need to be large enough that the tortoise can’t get stuck. They should easily be able to turn themselves around in it. Caretakers often use wood, PVC pipes, or terracotta pots to make hide boxes.
Provide rocks, driftwood, and a variety of live or fake plants to give the tortoise enrichment.
Avoid decorations that are too round in shape, especially under lamps. The tortoise may try to climb on the decorations, and rounded decorations may cause them to flip over. Flipping over is dangerous for tortoises if they can’t fix themselves. Predators can get at them, or they can suffer burns.
Cleaning
Spot clean the tortoise’s enclosure daily to remove old food and feces. Remove decorations once a week for cleaning. After they are cleaned, rearrange the decorations. Doing so gives the tortoise a change of scenery and extra enrichment.
Water and food dishes should receive thorough cleaning every day. Tortoises are prone to urinating and defecating in their soaking dishes. So, the water may need replacing several times a day.
Change the dirt in their dig box at least once a week to prevent mold and bacteria growth.
Handling
Like all tortoises, red-footed tortoises do not like handling. Only handle the tortoises when absolutely necessary. Despite disliking handling, these tortoises are curious and enjoy interacting with their caretakers.
Tank Mates
Red-footed tortoises do okay in groups as long as all tortoises are of similar sizes. They are not very territorial, so males and females can live together. Keeping at least two males to several females is recommended for breeding.
Do not keep red-footed tortoises with other species of tortoises. They often have different care requirements and behaviors.
What Do Red-Footed Tortoises Eat?
In the wild, red-footed tortoises mostly eat broad, leafy plants, but they also eat a bit of animal product. They need more protein than some other tortoise species. So, most of their diet comprises vegetation, fruits, and vegetables. Yet, they should also get some protein.
60% of their diet should comprise dark, leafy greens and grasses, such as:
- Red leaf lettuce
- Green leaf lettuce
- Spring mix
- Romaine lettuce
- Turnip greens
- Collard greens
- Dandelion greens
- Hibiscus flowers
- Muscadine leaves
15% of their diet should comprise vegetables, such as:
- Carrots
- Parsnips
- Sweet potatoes
- Squash
15% of their diet should comprise fruits, such as:
- Papaya
- Strawberries
- Blueberries
- Blackberries
- Loquat
- Grapes
- Apples
10% of their diet should comprise pelleted tortoise food, such as:
- Mazuri tortoise diet
- ZooMed forest tortoise diet
They should also get a bit of protein once to twice a week, like:
- 1-2 earthworms
- Boiled chicken with no seasonings
Avoid feeding these foods in large amounts:
- Broccoli
- Spinach
- Kale
- Citrus
The vegetables listed above can cause issues with the kidneys and urinary tract. Some tortoises may develop excruciating kidney stones. They are okay in small amounts, but shouldn’t be fed often.
Never feed tortoises these foods:
- Dog food
- Cat food
Dog and cat food are high in protein. Since tortoises are primarily herbivorous, the high protein levels can damage their kidneys.
How Often To Feed Red-Footed Tortoises
Juveniles need to eat more than adults, so they should eat every day. Once tortoises become adults, caretakers can cut their feedings back to two to three times a week.
Juveniles also need extra help from nutritional supplements. Sprinkle some calcium powder over their food two to three times a week. Sprinkle a multivitamin powder over their food once a week.
Adults usually get enough nutritional value from their regular diet. Yet, some may need support from vitamins. It’s ideal to sprinkle their food with a calcium powder once to twice a month to prevent deficiencies.
Feed tortoises during the day when they’re most active. Mist them lightly before feeding to stimulate their feeding response.
Health Problems
Red-footed tortoises are prone to certain health conditions, including:
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Metabolic bone disease is one of the most common problems in turtles and tortoises. It comes from a lack of calcium, vitamin D3, or phosphorus. They may develop MBD if they are not getting enough sunlight or exposure to UVB light bulbs.
MBD may also appear from nutritional deficiencies.
MBD is a painful disease, but it is usually treatable when caught early enough. Without early intervention, tortoises may have permanent deformities. Tortoises who never receive treatment are likely to die.
Symptoms of metabolic bone disease include:
- Lethargy
- Decreased appetite
- Soft shell
- Abnormal shell growth (e.g., pyramiding)
- Tremors/twitching
Shell Rot
These tortoises need high humidity levels, which makes them more prone to shell rot. Bacteria or fungi cause shell rot. The tortoise will need to be treated with antibiotics.
Symptoms of shell rot may include:
- Flaky patches on the shell
- Fungus growing on the shell
- Shell deformities
Respiratory Infection
They are also quite prone to respiratory infections because of their humid environments. Vitamin deficiencies may also cause them. Respiratory infections are dangerous and contagious to other tortoises and need immediate attention.
Symptoms of respiratory infections include:
- Runny nose
- Labored breathing
- Gasping for air
- Decreased appetite
- Lethargy
Vitamin A Deficiency
A vitamin A deficiency is caused by a lack of nutrients. A change in diet is required, and caretakers may need to add supplements. The tortoise may also need antibiotic treatment if they develop an infection.
Symptoms of a vitamin A deficiency include:
- Ear infection
- Swollen eyes
Parasitic Infections
Tortoises are prone to parasitic infections, especially if they’re wild-caught. They will need to be treated with antiparasitic medication.
Symptoms of parasitic infections include:
- Ticks or mites on the shell or skin
- Roundworms or other parasites in the feces
Red-Footed Tortoise Care, In A Nutshell
Consult this red-footed tortoise care sheet for quick care tips:
| Enclosure Size | 4 by 4 ft (1.2 by 1.2 m) |
| Temperature | Daytime Temperature — 74-80°F (23.3-26.7°C) Basking Temperature — 82-90°F (27.7-32.2°C)Bring Inside Once Nighttime Temperatures Drop Below 70°F (21.1°C) |
| Humidity | 50-70% |
| Lighting | Heat lamp UVB lamp Natural sunlight when possible |
| Decorations | Rocks Caves Vegetation Turtle hides |
| Substrate | Indoor/outdoor carpetPaper towelsNewspaper Butcher paper Cypress mulchZoo Med Repti BarkCoco chips |
| Tank Mates | Tank Mates Okay — Multiple Males Okay |
| Diet | Mostly Herbivorous |
| Handling | Minimal to No Handling |
FAQs
Tortoises spend most of their day sleeping. They only spend a few hours of daytime awake, and they spend most of that time searching for food. Juveniles sleep more than adults, spending as much as 19-22 hours sleeping. Adult tortoises sleep 12 to 16 hours a day, depending on their species.
The grassy part of wheatgrass is safe for tortoises to eat, but they should not eat the plant’s grains. The grains are high in gluten and protein, which are both bad for tortoises. The grains also contain little calcium and high phosphorus. High phosphorus contributes to metabolic bone disease.
Tortoises can see surprisingly well in the dark. They have more rods in their eyes than humans, allowing them to get around in the dark easily. Adding nighttime lights to a tortoise’s enclosure is more likely to stress them. They don’t need them to see.
Depending on the sex and age of the tortoise, they may cost anywhere from $150 to $700.
Always buy captive-bred tortoises from breeders and avoid buying wild-caught animals. The exploitation of wild individuals for the pet trade is a serious problem. Their wild populations are being negatively affected because of the illegal pet trade.
Wild-caught red-footed tortoises tend to be larger than captive-bred individuals. They also have smoother shells. Captive-bred individuals are smaller and easier to house. Their scutes are also more pronounced.
Most tortoises should not eat mushrooms. They are too high in protein, and most tortoises don’t eat them in their regular diet.
Red-footed tortoises are known to eat mushrooms in the wild, so eating them sparingly is okay. Still, caretakers shouldn’t give mushrooms to their red foot tortoises often.
Pineapples are high in sugar and acidity and unsafe for tortoises to consume. For this same reason, most citruses are not safe for tortoises.
Jabuti the Tortoise is a character from a children’s book of the same name. Jabuti is a flute-playing trickster who lives in the rainforest. A vulture is sick of his tricks, so he grabs Jabuti and drops him from high in the air, breaking his shell. Yet, with the help of some birds, Jabuti fixes his shell.
