Anubias plants grow slowly and can work well in modestly lit aquariums. Choose a form with the right mature size, then keep the thick horizontal rhizome exposed. A small portion tied to wood is often a better fit than a large species planted into the foreground.
Eight names you will encounter in shops
These names include species, varieties, and cultivated forms, rather than eight equivalent species. Trade labels can vary; check the supplier’s plant description and mature dimensions.
Anubias afzelii
A larger choice with elongated leaves. Use it where an upright specimen has room to develop, rather than treating a small purchased plant as a permanent nano-tank accent.
Anubias barteri
A common, broad-leaved choice for wood and rock. Allow for the spread of the leaves as well as their height, especially beside smaller plants.
Anubias barteri var. nana
A compact form often chosen for smaller hardscape features. It remains a slow-growing attached plant, not a fast carpeting species.
‘Petite’
A small-leaved form sold for detailed planting on wood and stone. Several portions can create a low clump, but expect gradual coverage rather than rapid spreading.
‘Coffeifolia’
Recognizable for its textured, strongly veined leaves. Leave enough surrounding space to see that form instead of hiding it behind taller planting.
Anubias gigantea
A large species for a spacious layout or suitable humid display. Check the adult plant before selecting it for a small aquarium.
Anubias gracilis
A distinctive choice with triangular or arrow-shaped leaves. Consider the difference between its submerged growth and its larger potential in a humid emersed setup.
Anubias hastifolia
A longer-stemmed, arrow-leaved plant for a larger planting area. Its open form makes a different visual accent from a dense clump of nana.
Attach the plant and leave the rhizome clear
Remove the pot and packing material carefully. Secure the rhizome against suitable wood or rock with a loose tie or a small amount of aquarium-safe plant glue, following its directions. Avoid crushing the stem or trapping livestock in loose line.
Roots can grow into the bottom, but do not cover the rhizome with substrate. Tropica’s nana profile specifically warns that covering it encourages rot. A pot in the shop is packaging, not an instruction to bury the entire plant.
Manage slow growth rather than forcing it
Use light appropriate to the form and position. Slow-growing leaves can collect algae, so inspect the lighting, nearby shade, and maintenance routine if growth becomes coated. Do not buy algae-eating animals simply to compensate for excessive light or waste.
A basic Anubias setup does not require injected CO2. Supply appropriate plant nutrition where needed, following the fertilizer directions. Fish waste does not guarantee a complete supply of every nutrient.
Our planted-aquarium guide connects light, nutrition, and the rest of the setup.
Inspect the rhizome if leaves deteriorate
Check whether the rhizome is buried, crushed, or becoming soft. Remove fully deteriorated leaves with a clean tool while preserving healthy growing tissue. Do not identify a disease or nutrient deficiency from a single yellow leaf.
Divide a healthy plant when it has enough growth
Use a clean, sharp tool to divide the rhizome, leaving viable leaves and roots on each section. Reattach the divisions without burying them. Small plants need time to establish; repeatedly cutting a struggling specimen does not help it recover.
For another plant attached to hardscape, compare Java fern. For a rooted focal plant, use the Amazon sword guide and plan a suitable planting bed.
