Apistogramma cichlids are small fish similar in size to tetras, platys, and rasboras. They are some of the most uniquely colorful fish hobbyists can keep in aquariums. There are many Apistos species with plenty of colors a hobbyist can choose from.
Apistos are a semi-aggressive species. Yet, they only become territorial during the breeding season or when there isn’t enough space. Their peaceful nature makes them an excellent option for some community tanks.
Apistos aren’t a great option for beginning fish keepers. Their water requirements aren’t anything extraordinary. Still, they are sensitive to fluctuations. Caretakers must ensure the water parameters stay stable.
Continue reading to learn about the care requirements of Apistogramma cichlids. We’ll cover their tank and water needs, what they eat, and which tank mates are suitable. We’ll also go over how to clean their tanks and what health problems to look for.
For the ambitious hobbyist, we’ll even cover how to breed Apistos.
For a concise care guide, look over the table below.
What Are Apistogramma Cichlids?
Apistogramma cichlids are small fish with vibrantly bright bodies. Their colors make them popular in the aquarium trade. Apistos are a type of dwarf cichlid that only reaches about 4 in (10 cm) in length. The males are about twice the size of the females, who generally only grow up to 2 in (5 cm).
There are over 90 species of Apistogrammas. They all have unique colorations and personalities.
They come from the warm, slow waters of the South American Amazon basin. Unlike most cichlids, these small fish are rarely aggressive.
They are omnivores who eat a lot of algae and meaty foods like shrimp and worms.
Dwarf cichlids are relatively long-lived, having lifespans of about five to ten years.
- Common Names: Dwarf cichlid, Apistos
- Scientific Name: Apistogramma
- Origin: South America
- Size (Length): females 2 in (5 cm), males 4 in (10 cm)
- Lifespan: 5-10 years
- Aquarium Size: 20+ gallons
- Temperament: Moderately peaceful to semi-aggressive
- Ease of Care: Moderately-hard
Apistogramma Cichlid Care, In A Nutshell
Consult this Apistogramma cichlid care sheet for quick care tips:
| Aquarium Size | 20+ gallons |
| Water Temperature | 72-86°F (22.2-30°C) |
| pH | 6.0-7.0 |
| Carbonate Hardness (KH) | 2-15 |
| Safe Water Levels | Ammonia: 0 ppm Nitrites: 0 ppm Nitrates: <40 ppm |
| Lighting | Prefers dim lighting |
| Decorations | Live vegetation Caves, shells, & rocks Driftwood Indian almond leaves |
| Tank Mates | Apistogrammas Rasboras Large tetras (e.g., cardinal, splash, black skirt)Neon tetrasPencilfish Pygmy corydoras Otocinclus catfish |
| Diet | Brine shrimp Blood wormsGlass wormsCichlid pellets/flakes Algae |
Care
Apistogramma cichlids can be challenging to care for. They aren’t the best fish for beginner fish keepers.
Dwarf cichlids are great for keepers who enjoy interacting with their fish. They are social and curious creatures. They will come up to the glass of their tank to check out their caretakers.
Tank Size
Since Apistos are small fish, they can stay in an aquarium as small as 20 gallons. Still, the more space hobbyists can give them, the better.
Larger aquariums can accommodate more fish, whether Apisotos or other fish species. Apistos can become aggressive if crowded; extra space is always good.
Plus, larger tanks are easier to care for than smaller ones. The larger the tank, the more stable its parameters will remain.
Go for a tank that is longer than it is tall. Apistos spend most of their time at the bottom of the tank. They appreciate having a longer tank as it gives them more space to swim.
Water Parameters
Apistos need slightly acidic to neutral water. The pH should sit between 6.0 and 7.0.
The hardness of their water varies widely based on the species. Potential keepers should research their specie’s needs before settling on a hardness.
Here are the healthy water parameters for most Apistogramms:
- pH: 6.0-7.0
- KH: 2-15
- Ammonia: 0 ppm
- Nitrities: 0 ppm
- Nitrates: >40 ppm
Apistos are pretty sensitive to changes in their water parameters. Caretakers must take care to keep the water conditions stable. Regularly testing the water is important in preventing fluctuations. The API Master Test Kit is one of the best options for testing the water quality of a tank.
Reverse Osmosis Water
It’s a good idea to use reverse osmosis (RO) water for dwarf cichlids since they need soft water. In short, the reverse osmosis system purifies the water. It does this by removing contaminants and minerals.
The RO filtration process softens the water and neutralizes the pH.
Reverse osmosis removes beneficial minerals from the water, as well as contaminants. Hobbyists must add the minerals back into the water. Pet stores offer many liquid and powder supplements. Hobbyists can add these to their aquariums to ensure their fish get the proper nutrients.
RO filtration systems generally cost around $200-300. That may seem like a massive expense initially. Yet, it’s a good investment, especially for hobbyists with many tanks.
Filters
Apistogramma cichlids create a decent amount of waste; a good filter is necessary. Hang-over-back (HOB) filters or canister filters work best.
These fish live in slow-moving water in the wild. Buy an adjustable filter and set it to low, ensuring the flow doesn’t bother them.
Hobbyists may need to include baffles on their filters if the flow is still too strong. Aquarists can often make these from sponges or water bottles.
Temperature
Dwarf cichlids come from tropical waters and need warm temperatures. They do well in temperatures between 72-86°F (22.2-30°C).
Water heaters are unnecessary for hobbyists who keep their homes at least 70°F (21.1°C).
Still, heaters are a good idea as they prevent temperature fluctuations. Home temperatures tend to shift slightly with the seasons. These shifts can cause an aquarium’s temperature to fluctuate. Heaters help keep the water temperature stable.
Keep a thermometer in the tank and check the temperature once a day. Do this regardless of if the tank has a heater.
Thermometers help hobbyists ensure their tanks aren’t getting too warm or cold. They can be vital in catching heater malfunctions. Malfunctions are rare but can be fatal to fish if hobbyists don’t notice the problem.
Lighting
Dwarf cichlids live in moderate lighting in the wild. They may experience stress from too much light.
They can adjust to higher lighting over time. Still, hobbyists should begin with lower lighting and slowly transition them.
The best option is to stay away from high lighting altogether. Choose plants that only need low to moderate light. Having lots of vegetation and decorations for the fish to hide in is helpful. The shade will ease their sensitivity to the light.
Substrate
Apistos cichlids live with sandy substrates in their natural environment. Hobbyists should use a sandy substrate to replicate that.
Sand is ideal because dwarf cichlids enjoy digging and burrowing into it.
Fine gravel is another suitable option.
Decorations
These cichlids enjoy many hiding places, mainly live vegetation and large, empty shells.
Vegetation
Apistos tend to stay near the bottom of the tank. Ensure there are lots of low-lying plants and other decorations across the bottom. Hobbyists should fill most of the tank with plants to keep these fish happy.
The digging habits of these cichlids make keeping live vegetation difficult.
Hobbyists need to secure their plants to prevent their fish from destroying them. Root tabs are good for anchoring plants into the substrate. They also contain nutrients to help the plants grow.
Another option is to anchor them to rocks, seashells, or plastic decorations. Use aquarium-safe glue to do this.
Good, hardy plants include:
- Java moss
- Java fern
- Water sprite
- Flame moss
- Cryptocorne
- Ceratopteris thalictroides
- Helanthium tenellum
- Anubius
Caves, Shells, & Rocks
Besides plants, Apistos appreciate having large, solid items they can hide inside. Large shells, caves, and plastic decorations are perfect for keeping these fish happy.
Indian Almond Leaves
Indian almond leaves make good additions to the tank. They mimic the natural leaf litter in the wild. The leaves release tannins into the water, which makes the water brown. Many people like this aesthetic, as it resembles their natural environment.
The tannins lower the pH levels and introduce minerals to the water. The leaves tend to be very beneficial to the fish and plants. Regularly check the pH levels to ensure they don’t get too low.
Driftwood
Driftwood is another excellent option for providing Apistos with hiding spaces. It is also helpful for shielding the fish against any bright light filtering into the tank.
Natural driftwood releases tannins into the water. These turn the water a murky brown like the Indian almond leaves.
The tannins reduce the pH of the water and introduce nutrients.
Cleaning
Dwarf cichlids produce a lot of waste; keepers should clean their tanks once a week. Replace 15-30% of the water at a time.
Avoid removing more than 30% of the water except in emergencies. Removing too much water at once can cause drastic fluctuations. Apistos are sensitive to fluctuations and may become stressed.
The best way to perform water changes is to use a gravel vacuum. These vacuums are excellent for sifting through gravel and sucking up dirt.
Most hobbyists use sand in their Apistos tanks. Gravel filters still work with sand. Keep the vacuum about 1 in (2.54 cm) from the surface of the sand. The vacuum will suck up poop and leftover food but won’t suck up the sand.
Feeding
Dwarf cichlids are omnivores. They happily eat the algae around the tank. They occasionally pick at the plants, though they mostly leave them alone.
Still, dwarf cichlids prefer meaty foods over vegetation. Live or frozen meaty foods should comprise the bulk of dwarf cichlids’ diets.
Healthy meaty foods include:
- Brine shrimp
- Blood worms
- Glass worms
Hobbyists can supplement their diet with high-quality, protein-rich cichlid pellets or flakes. Opt for sinking pellets rather than ones that float. Apistos spend most of their time at the bottom of the tank, making sinking foods better. Help flakes sink by wetting them rather than simply dropping them on the water.
Tank Mates
Apistos are social fish that don’t enjoy living alone. Hobbyists should always keep them in pairs or small groups.
Groups should contain only one male and many females. One male to four or five females is the best scenario.
Having many females prevents one female from receiving too much harassment. The male can divide his attention equally amongst his harem.
Keeping many males together is not a good idea. They become territorial, especially during the breeding season.
Other Species
Dwarf cichlids tend to have more passive personalities than larger cichlids. Apistogrammas often do well in semi-aggressive community tanks with fish of similar personalities.
Still, the exact temperament depends on the fish’s personality. It also depends on the kind of Apistos the hobbyist buys. Some Apistos species are more peaceful than others, while others are more aggressive.
Hobbyists should research the exact species they want before jumping in.
It’s best to choose tank mates of similar sizes and temperaments. Avoid fish that are too passive, as the Apistos may bully them.
Apistos prefer to stay near the bottom of the tank. It’s best to pick fish that prefer staying near the middle or top of the tank to avoid aggressive behavior.
Fish that usually make good tank mates include:
- Rasboras
- Large tetras (e.g., cardinal, splash, rummynose, lemon)
- Neon tetras
- Pencilfish
- Hatchetfish
- Pygmy gouramis
- Pygmy corydoras
- Otocinclus catfish
Avoid large and aggressive fish that may make a meal of the Apisots. Stay from “fin-nippers,” like barbs and black-skirt tetras. While they won’t kill the Apistos, they can damage their fins, which can lead to infection.
Fish that are not good tank mates include:
- Large/aggressive cichlids (e.g., flowerhorns, jaguars, & wolf cichlids)
- Barbs (particularly tiger barbs)
- Red tail sharks
- Bucktooth tetras
- Black-skirt tetras
- Pea puffers
- Afer knife
Breeding
Dwarf cichlids can be tricky to breed; it’s best to set up a separate breeding tank for the pair producing the eggs.
We don’t recommend trying to breed in a community tank. Hobbyists must move the fry to a fry tank after hatching to prevent the other fish from eating them. The mothers are heavily involved in caring for their young. They will also need to move to the new tank.
Keeping a separate breeding tank is easier for the hobbyist. Plus, it usually results in a better survival rate for the fry.
A separate breeding tank isn’t always necessary for a species-only tank. The mother will protect her from members of her species. Still, keeping a separate breeding tank is less stressful for the mother. It also eliminates any chances of the fry being eaten.
The Breeding Tank
The breeding tank only needs to be about 10 gallons. The housing is temporary, and it’s holding a smaller number of fish.
Set up the tank to look like a miniature version of the main tank. Use some substrate, filter media, and water from the main tank. Doing so will ensure the tank has beneficial bacteria and is safe for the fish. Hobbyists won’t need to wait weeks or months for the breeder tank to undergo the nitrogen cycle.
Ensure there are plenty of caves for the female to hide in and lay her eggs. Females keep their eggs in these caves and guard them against danger.
Water Parameters
It’s best to keep a water heater in the breeding tank, even if there isn’t one in the main tank. Warmer waters encourage breeding. The temperature in the breeding tank should sit around 75°F (23.9°C).
Raise the temperature as high as 80°F (26.7°C) to encourage breeding. Once the female produces eggs, lower the temperature back down to 75°F (23.9°C).
The water should be slightly acidic with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. It should be soft with a GH of about 5.
Cleaning & Filters
Breeder tanks should remain cleaner than the main tank. It’s best to perform a 10% water change every day.
A low-flow sponge filter is necessary for a breeder tank as they are safest for the fry. HOB, under-gravel, and canister filters will suck up and kill fry.
Choosing A Breeding Pair
Apistos become sexually mature around four to five months of age.
Find a pair already bonded for the best results, and add them to the tank together. Hobbyists may not always have a bonded pair. Place a male and several females into the breeding tank in these cases. Doing so will increase the chances of successful mating.
Fortunately, Apistos are sexually dimorphic, meaning males and females have different physical characteristics.
It’s not hard for hobbyists to tell males and females apart. Choosing a breeding pair is reasonably simple.
Males typically have much brighter coloration than females. Their bodies become brighter than usual when they are ready to breed. They also have distinctive plumage of their dorsal fins that females don’t have.
A female’s color is much more subdued. During breeding, their bodies turn yellow. They are easy to distinguish from the males during breeding.
Remember that it’s nearly impossible to tell the sex of juvenile cichlids.
The Breeding Process
Provide a diet of healthy, meaty live foods to encourage egg laying.
Remember to provide lots of caves and hiding spaces. A female ready to breed will claim one of the caves as her own.
She lays the eggs in the cave and lures the male inside. Once inside, the male fertilizes the eggs, and then the female chases him away.
A female Apistos can lay up to 80 eggs, which she secures at the top of her cave. The incubation period only lasts for two to five days. During incubation, the mother remains in the cave to protect her eggs.
After hatching, the mother coaxes her fry out of the cave and helps them look for food. They will scavenge around the tank and eat algae for the first three days. They can eat live foods, like baby brine shrimp, three days after hatching. Powdered fry food is another good option for those not wishing to deal with live food.
Juveniles need regular feeding. Ensure not to overfeed them as fry are particularly sensitive to poor water quality. Caretakers should keep the breeding tank as clean as possible while the fry grows.
The mother continues to care for and protect her fry as they grow. She watches over them for up to four weeks. After this time, the fry begins developing stripes on their bodies.
After about four weeks, the fry can begin to eat adult food. Live food or flakes are suitable.
Common Health Problems
There are no health problems that are exclusive to Apistos. They are not prone to certain health conditions, either.
Still, they may develop common health conditions amongst aquarium fish. Bacterial, fungal, and parasitic infections are the most common.
The most common cause of infections is fish stress. Bacteria, fungi, and parasites are ever-present in an aquarium. They don’t usually bother the inhabitants as long as they are happy and healthy. Fish experiencing stress have lowered immune systems that leave them susceptible to infection.
The best way to prevent infections is to keep the tank clean and the water parameters stable.
Caretakers should immediately quarantine and treat fish that develop infections. Many fish medications effectively treat infections.
FAQs
The more common varieties of Apistos do not cost much. Individuals generally cost between $10 and $50 — the rarer variations are on the higher end. Rarer types, like wild-caught individuals, may cost over $100.
Apistos may eat snails if hungry. Yet, it’s not a staple of their diet. Often, snails are too large for Apistos to fit in their mouths, though they may harass them on occasion. Those with a pest snail problem shouldn’t rely on Apistogrammas to get rid of the snails. Larger snails, like apple, nerite, and mystery snails, are usually safe.
Some hobbyists keep their Apistogramma cichlids in 10-gallon tanks. Still, keeping them in a tank this small is not a good idea. These fish are happiest in pairs or groups, and a 10-gallon tank will be too small for many fish. Apistos tend to get aggressive and territorial when they feel crowded.
Thanks for all that very good information