Pea puffers, Carinotetraodon travancoricus, are freshwater puffers from southwestern India that reach about 1 inch. Their small size does not make them suitable for an uncycled bowl or a crowded community. Plan a planted species aquarium and a dependable supply of suitable live and frozen food before buying them.
Tank size and keeping a group
A 20-gallon long aquarium is a practical starting point for six pea puffers. Pufferfish Enthusiasts Worldwide recommends groups of at least six, with dense cover and enough space for individuals to move away from one another. This is a husbandry recommendation based on specialist experience; adding more fish does not automatically solve bullying.
Break up sight lines with wood and plants, leaving several feeding areas. Java fern, Anubias and floating cover can help. Use a covered tank, protected filter intakes and gentle circulation with surface movement.
Watch for repeated chasing, damaged fins, a fish hiding constantly or an individual excluded from meals. Have a separation plan. A tank that looks peaceful immediately after stocking may change as the fish mature.
Freshwater conditions and maintenance
Do not add marine salt: this is a freshwater species. A stable temperature around 25–27°C (77–81°F) and pH around 6.8–7.8 suit a useful range of aquarium stock. Ask the breeder or supplier about the water in which the fish were raised, including hardness, before making large changes.
Complete a fishless cycle before stocking. Ammonia and nitrite should read zero. Test nitrate, remove uneaten food and make regular partial water changes with conditioned, temperature-matched water. Dense planting does not replace filtration or cleaning.
What pea puffers eat
Arrange several appropriately sized foods rather than relying on flakes or a single frozen food. Small cultured worms, Daphnia, Artemia and suitable insect larvae can provide variety. Many individuals refuse dry food; confirm what the seller actually sees them swallow. Do not assume a fish will learn to eat pellets before it loses condition.
Feed modest portions and check every individual. Use separate feeding spots or a baster where a dominant fish monopolizes food. Remove leftovers promptly. A persistently hollow belly, weight loss or food refusal calls for checking water, competition and possible illness, rather than simply adding more food.
Small ramshorn snails or bladder snails can be offered as part of the diet. Larger snails are not safe companions: puffers may injure them by biting exposed tissue. Remove uneaten remains. Do not use deliberately frozen-solid food or attempt home tooth trimming; seek experienced aquatic veterinary help if feeding becomes mechanically difficult.
Tank mates and buying healthy fish
A species aquarium is the safer default. Pea puffers can nip fins, eat shrimp and attack snails, while busy companions can intercept their food. Even fast fish and armored catfish are not guaranteed safe. See the tank mate assessment before considering additions.
Choose alert fish with intact fins and a reasonably filled abdomen, and ask about captive-bred availability. Quarantine arrivals and monitor feeding and feces. Diagnose suspected parasites with appropriate help; a thin fish does not establish a specific diagnosis. Never provoke inflation. Transfer fish in a submerged container where practical.
Sexing and breeding
Mature males commonly show a dark belly line and fine markings behind the eye; mature females are often rounder. Juveniles are difficult to sex. These features are described in the species profile; behavior alone is not a reliable sex test.
Spawning can occur among fine plants or moss. Eggs and fry need protection from adults, and a separate cycled rearing setup is useful. Prepare microscopic live foods before breeding; newly feeding fry may be too small for newly hatched Artemia. Increase food size only when you can confirm ingestion, and keep the rearing water clean with gentle, fry-safe filtration.
Pea puffers are not green spotted puffers
The green spotted puffer pictured above is a different species, commonly called Dichotomyctere nigroviridis. It grows much larger and needs different long-term water and housing arrangements. Do not use its care instructions for pea puffers, or buy an unidentified juvenile on the assumption that all small puffers remain small.
